Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their children are reluctant to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to learn these tales and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
